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A Refugee Chef's Culinary Journey in Malaysia

Nang Kham, a Shan refugee from Myanmar, uses her cooking to connect with her community and preserve her heritage in Malaysia.

By Kyaw Zin Oo21 July 20263 min read
A Refugee Chef's Culinary Journey in Malaysia

Nang Kham, a 64-year-old Shan refugee from Myanmar, has found solace and purpose in cooking since she has been living in Malaysia since 2023. Fleeing the civil war that erupted in Myanmar in 2021, she now dedicates her culinary skills to serving her community, particularly through the Coalition of Burma Ethnics Malaysia (Cobem). Her approach to cooking is deeply personal; she prefers to prepare meals alone, believing that the care and attention she puts into each dish cannot be replicated by others.

Nang Kham stated that she prefers doing things on her own, explaining that other cooks may ask her to add this or add that, but it just won’t turn out right. She believes her food has to be made in a certain way for it to taste good. This philosophy stems from her childhood, when she began selling noodles to support her family and learned from experienced cooks in her village.

“I prefer doing things on my own. Other cooks may ask me to add this or add that, but it just won’t turn out right.”Nang Kham, Shan refugee chef

Nang Kham's culinary talents were recently highlighted at the Stand With Myanmar food festival, organized by Cobem and other local groups, where she prepared a variety of traditional dishes. Among her favorites is Shan Khauk Swe, a dish of rice noodles topped with savory minced chicken or pork, crushed peanuts, and pickled greens. She remarked that it’s not always easy to get the flavors right, but it’s worth the effort when she sees people enjoying it.

Despite the challenges she faces as a refugee, including the inability to work legally and the constant threat of arrest or deportation, Nang Kham remains optimistic. She is grateful for the availability of ingredients for her traditional dishes in local markets and has even developed a fondness for Malaysian curry laksa.

Elroi Yee, a producer for Dari Dapur, described her as someone who is always eager to lend a hand. He noted that at the same time, she’s going through many challenges as a refugee, including being separated from her family, not being able to work legally, and facing the risk of arrest or deportation, emphasizing the need for greater understanding of the refugee experience.

“If Malaysians take the time to have a real conversation with refugees – perhaps over a shared meal – we would have a richer understanding of life and humanity.”Elroi Yee, Dari Dapur producer

Nang Kham's story is a poignant reminder of the resilience of individuals facing adversity. She hopes that sharing meals can bridge the gap between refugees and locals, fostering empathy and understanding. Elroi Yee expressed that if Malaysians take the time to have a real conversation with refugees – perhaps over a shared meal – they would have a richer understanding of life and humanity.

As she continues to navigate her new life in Kuala Lumpur, Nang Kham remains hopeful for her homeland and cherishes the friendships she has formed within her community. She expressed that she is happy here, has friends in the community, and hopes things get better for her people back in Myanmar. She shared that when she was younger, she dreamt of becoming a successful businesswoman, but now she is happy with the life she has here.